Where the Air is Thin and the Hearts are Full — 7 Women, Nepal, Everest Base Camp

What happens when a group of women — some strangers, some friends — say yes to something that scares them just enough? They fly to Nepal. They lace up their boots. They walk, slowly and steadily, all the way to the base of the highest mountain in the world. And they come back changed. This is that story.

And so it begins. Lukla Airport, 2,860m, tiny planes and very big dreams. Let’s go!

Day 1: Kathmandu - The Adventure Begins

Tuesday 21st April 2026

Kathmandu, 1,400m | High: ~28°C / Low: ~16°C

Today was the official start of our Women Embrace Adventure Everest Base Camp trip… and you could feel it.

While we’d all arrived into Kathmandu at different times over the past few days, today was the day it all came together. The moment it shifted from planning and anticipation… to we’re actually doing this.

There was that buzz all day — Kat, Jenny, Camille, Sue, Kathie, Bernadette and Amanda all coming together for the first time in Nepal, stories being shared, nerves, excitement… and a whole lot of “I can’t believe we’re here.”

We kicked things off with our WEA goody bags (always a favourite moment) and our team shirts — which somehow make it all feel very real, very quickly. There’s something about putting that shirt on that makes you feel part of something bigger.

Then it was time for one of the most important parts of the day — our packing session for the trek. What to take, what not to take, how to fit your life into a duffel… and a few “you probably don’t need that” moments thrown in from Kat. A mix of practical tips, a few laughs, and maybe a slight realisation for some that less really is more on this kind of adventure.

And then… we headed up to 33 West Sky Bar for sunset drinks over the Kathmandu skyline. The sun dropped behind the city, someone raised a glass, and it hit — really hit — that this was no longer a plan on a page. We were here. All of us. Actually doing this.

Dinner followed with our Take on Nepal crew — meeting Dinesh and our guide Anil, who’ll be leading us every step of the way to Everest Base Camp. Hearing from them about what’s ahead just added to that mix of excitement and anticipation.

An early night tonight (or at least that was the plan)… because tomorrow we leave the city behind and head to Batase Village. And this adventure… really begins.

Cheers to the adventure ahead — cocktails, a Kathmandu sunset, and absolutely no idea how much this trip was about to change us. The whole crew at 33 West Sky Bar, Kathmandu on Day 1, sunset drinks, and that electric mix of nerves and excitement that only comes at the start of something big. This is us before the mountain.

Day 2: Kathmandu - Kathmandu to Batase Village

Wednesday 22nd April 2026

Kathmandu, 1,400m → Batase Village, ~1,800m | High: ~26°C / Low: ~14°C

Today we left the hustle of Kathmandu behind and made our way to Batase Village.

A bumpy, windy road… the kind where you’re holding on a little and laughing a lot, or maybe the other way around. We stopped along the way to pick up water and snacks for the kids — a small thing that already started to feel like it meant a lot.

Arriving in Batase, we were welcomed with the most delicious dahl baht for lunch — proper, home-cooked, made with heart.

After lunch we wandered through the village, getting our bearings and visiting the school. It’s simple, its beautiful and full of possibility.

The afternoon was slow and special — popcorn and tea, sitting together, taking it all in.

Then Kats boys arrived after their red panda expedition — successful and very proud of themselves. So good having them back in Batase.

(A little context: the boys had done the full EBC trek alongside Kat and her family just before the WEA trip, and had already spent time in Batase just like we were doing now. After finishing the trek, they headed off on a 3-day red panda expedition — and as luck would have it, the adventure ended close enough to Batase that they could loop back for one final night. Back to the village, back to the kids they’d already bonded with, and back to see us. Batase was the best kind of ending to their adventure - it felt like coming home.)

Later in the day, the kids from the Friends of Himalayan Children hostel came down to meet us — and what a welcome. Huge smiles, open arms, hugs and high fives before we’d barely introduced ourselves. Warmth that just stops you still. We handed out the clothes and treats we’d brought, and their excitement was infectious — pure, uncomplicated joy that you don’t forget in a hurry.

We then walked up to visit them at the hostel, where the kids introduced themselves one by one… and we did the same. No phones, no distractions, no agenda — just a circle of people genuinely wanting to know each other. Grounding doesn’t quite cover it.

Dinner was Dinesh's Batase-style pizza (and honestly… so good), followed by cards, and learning the local game Tigers and Goats — also known locally as Bagh-Chal. Amanda, Camille and Sue showed their competitive side, even beating some of the locals.

The village does have electricity — but not today. So everything was done by wood fire and head torch. It felt simple, a little bit raw… and kind of perfect.

An early night… happily exhausted.

Kat and Mendho on snack duty — when you’re stopping to pick up supplies for the kids, you go big or you go home.

IAmanda sharing a little piece of home with two of the Friends of Himalayan Children kids in Batase. No shared language needed — just a phone screen, a warm shoulder, and two very curious little faces.

A very serious, highly competitive, absolutely chaotic game of UNO with the Friends of Himalayan Children kids. Note the word EMPOWER on the wall behind them — we couldn’t have said it better ourselves.

Day 3: Batase Village

Thursday 23rd April 2026

Batase Village, ~1,800m | High: ~26°C / Low: ~13°C

The WEA crew and the kids from the Friends of Himalayan Children hostel at the Hindu temple above Batase Village — prayer flags, big smiles, and one beautiful hike to get here. These kids made this part of the trip something we’ll never forget.

Breakfast at 7:30… and then straight into one of those mornings you don’t forget. We hiked up to the Hindu temple above the village with our WEA crew, the hostel kids, and the Take on Nepal team. A beautiful walk, full of chatter, laughter, and a few steep sections to get the heart pumping. Along the way, we stopped to pick little yellow berries growing on the side of the track. The kids absolutely loved this part — showing us what to pick, how to eat them, and proudly offering them to us. Small and unhurried, and somehow one of the best parts of the day.

Back down for lunch… and then things got very exciting.

Kats boys were heading off — by helicopter no less.

The entire village gathered on the soccer field… because this was a first for Batase. A helicopter landing right there in their village.

What followed was absolute chaos in the best way — dust flying everywhere, hair going wild, everyone shielding their faces and laughing through it. A proper chopper dust storm moment.

And then… out stepped the pilot. A woman. In a village where a helicopter had never landed before, it felt like the universe had a sense of occasion. Her name is Captain Priya Adhikari — Nepal’s first female helicopter rescue pilot, and by every account, a fearless hero of the skies. For a group of women who’d come to Nepal to prove what’s possible, watching her step off that helicopter in Batase Village was a moment none of us will forget. A quiet, powerful reminder that women are out here doing extraordinary things — on the ground, and apparently, very much in the air too.

We said our goodbyes, a mix of proud and emotional (especially for Kat), and watched as the boys hopped in and lifted off. The whole village buzzing long after it disappeared.

The afternoon slowed again — more cards, more rounds of Bagh-Chal, and just being present.

Later, the kids took us into the jungle to collect food for the goats and cows, and gather firewood for dinner. An everyday routine for them — and a privilege for us to be let into it.

Back at the hostel, the evening turned into singing and dancing with the kids — laughter, music, and the kind of joy that needs no translation.

Dinner was another incredible spread, followed by a cuppa and a very special carrot cake made by Dinesh. We also tried local corn dish, Dhido and a beautiful chicken curry.

Bed… full hearts, full everything.

Day 4: Batase Village to Kathmandu

Friday 24th April 2026

Batase Village, ~1,800m → Kathmandu, 1,400m | High: ~28°C / Low: ~16°C

Today we said goodbye to Batase… and that was harder than expected.

There’s something about this place. The people, the simplicity, the connection. We all felt it — we could have stayed so much longer. Goodbyes to the kids were emotional. Hugs, waves, and that quiet knowing that this part of the trip has left a mark on all of us.

Then it was back into the cars for the 3-hour journey to Kathmandu… that bumpy, winding road, giving us time to reflect on what we’d just experienced.

Now it’s time to regroup, repack, and get ready for the next chapter…

The trek begins tomorrow.

The whole crew — WEA, the Take on Nepal team, the Friends of Himalayan Children kids, and the beautiful people of Batase Village — just before we said our goodbyes. A photo that doesn’t quite capture how hard it was to leave, but gives you a small idea of why. These people. This place.

Day 5 (Day 1 of Trek): Kathmandu to Lukla to Phakding

Saturday 25th April 2026

Lukla, 2,860m → Phakding, 2,610m | Approx. 8km | Descent: 250m | High: ~14°C / Low: ~4°C

An early start today… and the day we’ve all been waiting for.

5:45am breakfast, bags ready, and out the door at 6:00am to head to Kathmandu airport for our 7:30 flight to Lukla.

Amanda’s hand-crocheted poppy — made with love and worn with pride on Anzac Day at Kathmandu airport, on the other side of the world, about to fly into the mountains. Lest we forget.

But today wasn’t just any day.

It’s Anzac Day back home — a day that always carries meaning. And here in Nepal, it also marks the anniversary of the devastating 2015 earthquake.

As we waited at the airport, Amanda handed each of us a crocheted poppy she had made — such a thoughtful, special touch. We shared a packet of Anzac biscuits together, taking a quiet moment to reflect. Reflecting on those who have served, and also on this country we’re standing in — the strength, the resilience, and everything the people of Nepal have been through since the earthquake. It felt pretty significant… being right here, on this day, about to head into the mountains.

Not everything went to plan, we pretty much expected it. Lukla airport was closed for a while due to cloud, so our flight was delayed. A bit of waiting, a bit of patience… and a reminder that things run on mountain time here.

Just before 10am, we were called and jumped on a bus out to the tarmac to board our little 16-seater plane. We waited there for a bit, watching another flight come in, passengers hop off… and then it was our turn. Thirty minutes in the air — a bit of turbulence to keep things interesting — and then we landed in what’s often called the world’s most dangerous airport. Short runway, mountains all around… and one very committed landing.

And just like that — we were in Lukla.

We were welcomed by two more of our incredible guides, Samjhana and Bimmaya, along with our amazing porter team — Jeevan, Dipan, Ambir and Bhuparaj. These legends will be carrying our duffels and supporting us every step of the way to Base Camp.

We headed to a tea house for an early lunch… and then it was time.

Boots on. Packs ready.

We started our trek.

Today’s walk — Lukla to Phakding — was a gentle introduction… but still plenty to take in. We followed the trail down through small villages, past mani stones and spinning prayer wheels, across suspension bridges, and alongside the beautiful Dudh Kosi River (aka the Milky River)— that milky glacial water flowing beside us.

About an hour in… the mountains reminded us who’s boss. A sudden hail storm rolled through, sending us scrambling for cover. We tucked into a tea house and warmed up with ginger, lemon and honey while it passed — one of those unexpected little moments that end up being a highlight. Then it was back out into a gentle rain for a while… before the sun came out like nothing had happened. Classic mountain weather.

Kids calling out “Namaste!”, donkeys and yaks sharing the track, colourful prayer flags lining the way… it was everything you imagine, and more.

Up and down, but mostly easing ourselves into the rhythm of walking… bistari bistari — slowly, slowly.

We arrived into Phakding around 5:30pm, ready to rest. Settled into our rooms, a quick freshen up, and then our first dinner together on the trail — sitting around the table, sharing stories from the day, and soaking in the fact that this is now our life for the next 12 days.

After dinner, Anil gave us a briefing on how the day went… and what tomorrow looks like. Let’s just say — it involves a lot of stairs.

Early to bed tonight… because tomorrow, the real work begins.

Seven women, seven duffels, one very big mountain waiting. Kathmandu airport — Anzac Day, poppies on, and absolutely no turning back now. Let’s go.

The official start of the trek — passing through the Pasang Lhamu Gate in Lukla. Named after Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, the first Nepali woman to summit Everest in 1992. Walking through this gate felt fitting for a group of women about to take on the same mountain she loved. Boots on. Here we go.

Under the prayer flags of Lukla — packs on backs, poles in hand, and the whole trail ahead of us. Every one of those flags carries a prayer sent out into the wind. We could have used every single one.

Day 6 (Day 2 of Trek): Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Sunday 26th April 2026

Phakding, 2,610m → Namche Bazaar, 3,440m | Approx. 12km | Ascent: 830m | High: ~10°C / Low: ~1°C

Today was a big one. And a special one — it was Sue’s birthday.

As she walked into breakfast, the whole tea house started singing happy birthday. A unexpected, beautiful moment that just made us smile. We followed it up with a few small gifts, a card… and of course, the birthday hat. A unicorn number with long ears that flap up and down when you press the pumps — which brought plenty of laughs and set the tone for the day.

There’s nowhere we’d rather celebrate Sue’s birthday than on the trail from Phakding to Namche Bazaar.

And then… we started walking. Phakding to Namche. 12kms… and — it earned its reputation. Countless stairs. And pretty much just up, up, up.

We made our way through villages, across suspension bridges, and alongside the Dudh Kosi River once again, slowly gaining elevation with every step.

After about 7km, we stopped for lunch at Jorsalle. Dahl baht power, 24 hour — as they say in Nepal — and honestly, it hits the spot when you need it most.

From there… it got real.

The climb towards Namche is no joke. Three suspension bridges along the way, including the famous Hillary Bridge — hanging high above the river, lined with prayer flags and swaying just enough to remind you where you are. Standing there, you can’t help but think about the history of this place and all the people who’ve crossed it before heading towards Everest.

And then… the final push. A long, steady climb that just keeps going. Thank goodness for the constant stream of donkeys passing by — not just entertaining, but also the perfect excuse to step aside, catch your breath, and reset before continuing on.

And then… we made it.

Namche Bazaar.

Happy birthday beautiful Sue

Walking into Namche feels like a real milestone. You’ve officially arrived in the heart of the Khumbu Region.

And we were in for a treat. A room with a hot shower… and a toilet. It might sound simple, but trust me — this felt like absolute luxury. Especially knowing we’re here for two nights.

After a much-needed hot shower to warm our cold, tired bodies, we headed down for dinner. Fire going, more of that magic ginger, lemon and honey tea… and a very quiet group.

After dinner the most wonderful surprise was waiting for Sue in Namche. A birthday cake appeared out of nowhere and the whole teahouse sang Happy Birthday at 3,440m! Safe to say it’s a birthday Sue won’t be forgetting in a hurry 

Not many of us slept well the night before, so tonight it was straight to bed, hoping for a better sleep.

A big, tough, and very rewarding day.

Day 7 (Day 3 of Trek): Acclimatization Day in Dingboche

Monday 27th April 2026

Namche Bazaar, 3,440m → Everest View Hotel, 3,880m → back to Namche, 3,440m | Approx. 5–6km return | High: ~8°C / Low: ~0°C

Today was our acclimatisation day… which in Everest Base Camp terms means — hike high, sleep low.

We headed out from Namche Bazaar after breakfast, making our way up towards the Everest View Hotel. It’s only about 5–6km return… but don’t let that fool you. It’s a steady climb the whole way, gaining around 440 metres in elevation, and you definitely feel it. Slowly, slowly… bistari bistari.

And then… the reward.

Jen wasn’t taking any chances — three spins on every prayer wheel on the trail. The most blessed trekker in the Himalayas right here.

A perfectly clear day. And there it was — Mount Everest. Just sitting there, enormous and unhurried, like it had been waiting for us all along. Ama Dablam standing proudly alongside it, the two of them filling the skyline in a way that no photo ever quite does justice. Clear, crisp, and absolutely real.

We sat out on the verandah at the hotel soaking it all in — sunshine on our faces, sipping ginger, lemon and honey tea, and enjoying hot chips (which somehow taste even better at altitude). Absolute perfection.

On the way back down, we stopped at the Sagarmatha Next centre — a really impressive recycling and sustainability initiative in the Everest region. They’re doing incredible work to manage waste on the mountain, turning rubbish into usable materials and helping to keep the Himalayas clean. We’ll each be picking up a 1kg bag of rubbish on our way back down to do our little bit and support the cause.

Back into Namche for a delicious lunch… followed by a bit of exploring — some shopping, and for a few… even a massage (yes, we are being slightly spoilt). And another hot shower… which no one is taking for granted, it could be our last for a week or so.

Dinner together again tonight, a bit more energy back in the group after a better sleep, and feeling good after a solid acclimatisation day.

Tomorrow, we head off again — on to Tengboche… and the next part of the adventure.

There she is. Our first glimpse of Everest — and the breathtaking Ama Dablam beside her. No photo will ever do it justice but we tried

The clue is very much in the name - The Everest View Hotel living up to every single bit of its reputation. Pinching ourselves this is real.

Namche Bazaar — the beating heart of the Khumbu. Perched at 3,440m, this incredible mountain town has welcomed trekkers, climbers and traders for centuries. We made it!

Day 8 (Day 4 of Trek): Namche Bazaar to Tengboche

Tuesday 28th April 2026

Namche Bazaar, 3,440m → Tengboche, 3,860m | Approx. 10–11km | Net ascent: 420m | High: ~7°C / Low: ~-1°C

The last photo together before the trail took us in different directions. See you in Lukla Bernadette.

Today we left Namche behind and continued deeper into the mountains. We also said see you later to Bernadette (her guide and porter) as she headed off on her own Himalayan adventure. Bernadette had chosen to trek at a lower altitude — still challenging, still breathtaking — and with her incredible team around her we knew she was in the very best hands. It was a bittersweet goodbye but this is the thing about the mountains — they have a way of bringing people back together. And sure enough, we would see her again in Lukla.

Starting at Namche Bazaar and making our way to Tengboche, the day gives you a bit of everything.Bernadette had chosen to trek at a lower altitude — no less challenging, no less breathtaking — and with her incredible team around her we knew she was in We began with a relatively gentle, undulating trail out of Namche — with incredible views opening up as we went. On a clear day like today, it felt like the mountains were just putting on a show for us.

Then came the descent… all the way down to the river. And if you’ve done any hiking, you know what that means — whatever you go down, you have to come back up.

We stopped for lunch at Phungi Thenga, right by the river. A beautiful little spot to rest, refuel, and mentally prepare for what was coming next. Because after lunch… it was time to climb.

And climb we did. A long, steady uphill through forest, with switchbacks that just kept going. Slow, consistent steps, lots of quiet focus, and a few “just keep moving” moments. Definitely one of those sections where you feel the altitude starting to creep in.

Stairs in Namche to start the day: Nobody warned us that Namche is basically one giant staircase. Day 3 starts the only way this town knows how — straight up! Onwards and upwards, literally.

Rhododendron: Nepal’s national flower doing what it does best — stopping trekkers in their tracks. The rhododendron forests along the trail are absolutely breathtaking, and this beauty was too good not to capture. Nature showing off as always.

Local with dog in a basket: Just your average day on the Everest trail.  A friendly local carrying his very content dog in a basket — because why walk when you can ride? Every single day on this trail brings something new and unexpected. We absolutely love it.

But then… we arrived. Tengboche. And what a place.

Nestled in the mountains with wide open views and home to the famous Tengboche Monastery, it has a really special feel about it.

Later in the afternoon, we walked over to the monastery and stepped inside while the monks were praying. The sound hit you first — deep, rhythmic chanting, low horns echoing through the space, and the soft hum of prayer filling the room. Rows of monks seated in their robes, completely immersed, while we quietly sat and took it all in. It was calm, powerful, and honestly… pretty beautiful.

Back to the tea house for dinner, and then… trivia. A few laughs, a bit of healthy competition, and Jenny finally cracking open the journal she’d been carrying since Kathmandu — only to close it again shortly after. Some things are better left as intentions. Amanda, on the other hand, had been quietly keeping her own journal going — complete with some very basic, very funny little sketches of our days that had everyone in stitches. A debrief on the day, a briefing for tomorrow, and then straight to bed.

Another big day done.

Tengboche Monastery — one of the most sacred sites in the Himalayas. Sitting at 3,867m, this stunning Buddhist monastery has watched over the Khumbu valley since 1916, a place of deep peace and prayer on the road to Everest. The intricate gateway, the guardian lions, the golden symbols — every detail takes your breath away . And then there’s our unexpected gate guardian — a Chauri, a yak crossbreed you’ll find all along the lower trails carrying loads and generally doing as they please.  She had absolutely no intention of moving. Every day on this trail throws up something wonderful 

Day 9 (Day 5 of Trek): Tengboche to Dingboche

Wednesday 29th April 2026

Tengboche, 3,860m → Dingboche, 4,410m | Approx. 10–11km | Ascent: 550m | High: ~5°C / Low: ~-10°C

Another big day… and we’re really starting to feel like we’re properly in the mountains now.

We started the morning heading downhill through forest, dropping down towards the river before crossing and beginning the gradual climb back up.

And then, as we climbed higher, the landscape began to change. Once you pass around 4,000 metres, the trees disappear. Everything opens up — more rugged, more exposed, and a lot more raw. Just rock, mountains, and big wide valleys. It’s a pretty cool shift… and also a reminder that we’re getting higher.

We passed through small villages, walked alongside stone walls and prayer flags, gave way to donkeys, horses, porters and yaks and we just kept ticking along… one step at a time.

The unsung heroes of the Everest trail. Yaks, Chauris, donkeys, horses and the most extraordinary porters you will ever meet — between them they carry everything that keeps life functioning on the mountain. Food, gas, equipment, luggage heavier than most of us would dare lift — all transported up some of the most unforgiving terrain on earth, in all weathers, without complaint. We passed them every single day on the trail and never once stopped being humbled by them. This mountain belongs to them.

Lunch was at Somare — a well-earned stop before the final push.

And then… the last section. A steady climb up towards Dingboche. About 40 minutes from the end, the weather turned. Snow started falling — at first just light… and then enough to properly feel it.

So we walked the final stretch into Dingboche with snow falling around us — it feels tough at the time but also pretty magical. Cold, quiet, and a little bit surreal.

We arrived at our tea house ready to warm up. Hot chocolates around the fire, steam rising off us as we dried out our clothes and bags — absolute heaven.

It’s getting properly cold up here now — sitting somewhere between -5 and -10 degrees overnight, and with no heating in the rooms, the dining room fire becomes the place to be.

Dinner at 6… followed by a very competitive game of UNO … no one wanted to leave the heater.

Eventually though — off to bed, layering up and bracing for a cold night.

Another tough day… but a pretty special one.

Day 5 into Dingboche and the Himalayas decided to give us a proper welcome. Snow swirling, visibility dropping and the temperature plummeting to remind us exactly where we were — 4,410m up in the Khumbu. Not a single complaint from this lot though. Hoods up, heads down and still grinning for the camera. This crew is something else entirely.

Day 10 (Day 6 of Trek): Acclimatisation Day, Dingboche

Thursday 30th April 2026

Dingboche, 4,410m → Nangkartshang Hill, ~4,800m → back to Dingboche, 4,410m | Approx. 4km | Morning temp: -11°C

A slightly slower start this morning… and freezing. Our coldest morning so far at -11°C, so staying tucked under the blankets for an extra 30 minutes before breakfast was very welcome.

Today was another acclimatisation day… which of course still involves hiking.

We set off at 8:15am to tackle Nangkartshang Hill, heading up from Dingboche. The weather was a bit moody — misty to start, then turning to light snow as we climbed.

Step by step, slowly gaining elevation… and before we knew it, we’d climbed around 400 metres, reaching our highest point so far at approximately 4,800m. A pretty big milestone.

4,800m. Cold, misty and not a view in sight — but we didn’t come this far to give up easily. The acclimatisation hike above Dingboche pushed every single one of us but this group just keeps showing up. Prayer flags found, bragging rights earned, bodies quietly adapting to what lies ahead. Base Camp isn’t going to know what’s hit it.

And the team? Absolutely smashing it. Everyone seems to be getting stronger day by day, even as we climb higher. It’s pretty incredible to watch.

That said… the breathing is definitely getting harder. You can feel the altitude now. Every step takes a bit more effort, so we slow it down even more — bistari bistari — finding that steady rhythm that gets you there.

After taking it all in at the top,(what we could see through the clouds and mist) we made our way back down, arriving at the tea house just before lunch. Time for a quick freshen up… then a relaxed lunch, and a free afternoon to rest, recover, and just be.

Some reading, some chatting, some horizontal time — whatever the body needed.

These days are just as important as the big hiking days. Rest, reset… and get ready for what’s ahead.

Day 11 (Day 7 of Trek): Dingboche to Lobuche

Friday 1st May 2026

Dingboche, 4,410m → Lobuche, 4,940m | Approx. 9km | Ascent: 530m | High: ~3°C / Low: ~-8°C

Another big step up in altitude today.

We left Dingboche and made our way towards Lobuche, the air noticeably thinner now and every step taking just that little bit more effort. The trail gradually climbed as we moved through wide open valleys, the landscape now completely stripped back — no trees, just rock, dust, and mountains towering around us.

Lunch was at Thukla (Dughla) — a well-earned break before what’s known as one of the tougher sections of the day. As we were having lunch we were watching the weather turning out the tea house windows.. Snow started falling …

After lunch … it started. The climb up from Thukla is short but steep, and you feel every bit of it at this altitude. At the top of the accent we reached the Thukla Pass Memorial — a ridge scattered with over 100 stone cairns and plaques dedicated to climbers and Sherpas who never made it home from Everest. It was snowing, it was cold, and we didn’t stay long. But you didn’t need long. The weight of it settles on you quickly and quietly — all those names, all those stories, the mountain looming somewhere above in the cloud. We moved on with a little more reverence than we’d arrived with. On the way back down we’re hoping to return and spend some proper time here — weather willing. It deserves that.

We walked the rest of the way to Lobuche in steady snowfall — quiet, cold, and pretty relentless. We just keep putting one foot in front of the other.

Arriving into Lobuche, we were well and truly ready to get inside. Warm drinks, layers on, and straight to the dining room where the heater becomes the centre of everything.

Another tough day… and a big one for the altitude.

Leaving Dingboche: Clouds pouring through the valley, the peaks draped in fresh snow and blue sky finally making an appearance. Mother Nature gave us the most spectacular farewell after 2 days in Dingboche.

Yak poo stacks: At this altitude there isn’t a tree in sight, so the locals have found another way to keep warm — yak dung, dried and stacked into neat piles and used as fuel for fires. It works brilliantly and has done for centuries. Nothing goes to waste up here. The mountains have a way of teaching you what really matters.

Horse in the snow: Just a horse, standing patiently in the snow at the side of the trail, completely unbothered by the altitude or the cold. Up here the animals are as tough as the landscape. Every day on this trail throws something unexpected at you and we are here for every single moment of it.

Day 12 (Day 8 of Trek): Lobuche to Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp and back

Saturday 2nd May 2026

Lobuche, 4,940m → Gorak Shep, 5,164m → Everest Base Camp, 5,364m → Gorak Shep, 5,164m | Approx. 15km | High: ~3°C / Low: ~-10°C

Today was the day.

The one we’ve all been working towards.

We left Lobuche and made our way towards Gorak Shep, the last stop before Everest Base Camp. The track was tough from the start — rocky, uneven, and slow going. The kind of terrain where you really have to concentrate on every step. The landscape up here is harsh. Raw. Almost otherworldly.

We stopped at Gorak Shep for lunch before heading out to Base Camp… and by then, the snow had well and truly set in. It snowed all day. And we walked straight into it.

We made it. Everest Base Camp. 5,364m. Every step, every breathless night, every early morning and every hard day on the trail led to this moment. Not a great photo — nobody was looking at the same camera and honestly we don’t care one bit. We were too busy trying to take it all in. This one is for every person who said we could and every doubt we had that said we couldn’t.

The final stretch to Everest Base Camp isn’t easy — not because it’s steep, but because of the altitude, the terrain, and everything your body is dealing with at that point. Slow steps. Heavy legs. Focused minds.

With the guides and porters. None of this happens without these incredible people. Our guides and porters who carried our bags, kept us safe, kept us moving and never once stopped smiling or believing in us. They made this journey possible and we will never forget their kindness, their strength and their spirit. From the bottom of our very full hearts — thank you. Truly.

And then…We were there.

Everest Base Camp — 5,364m.

No big dramatic reveal. No summit view. Just prayer flags, ice, rock… and this incredible feeling that’s hard to put into words. That we’d made it. That all the training, all the early mornings, all the unknowns… had led to this moment.

Standing there with this group of women — each one digging deep in their own way to get here — was something really special. There were smiles, hugs, a few tears… and a quiet sense of pride. Because this isn’t easy. And we did it.

These amazing women showed up, pushed through, supported each other… and got themselves to Everest Base Camp.

We didn’t stay long — it’s too cold, too exposed — but long enough to take it in. Then it was time to turn around and head back to Gorak Shep. Still snowing. Still tough. But something had shifted. We’d done it.

A long, exhausting, emotional day. One we’ll never forget.

The EBC rock. No, it’s not pretty. No, it’s not the most photogenic spot on the trail. But standing next to it at 5,364m with this team? Absolutely everything. The faces say it all — every single one of us earned our place in these photos..

Day 13 (Day 9 of Trek): Gorak Shep to Pangboche (via Thukla)

Sunday 3rd May 2026

Gorak Shep, 5,164m → Pangboche, 3,985m | Approx. 20km | Descent: 1,179m | High: ~8°C / Low: ~-2°C

A big day ahead — and a special one.

We left Gorak Shep and began the long descent, retracing our steps back through Lobuche.

We made good on our promise to stop longer at the Thukla Pass Memorial on the way back down — and we were glad we did. The weather was kinder this time, the snow gone and the sky a little more open, and it gave us the space to actually be there. To walk slowly between the cairns and plaques. To read the names. To take in what it really means — all those people who stood on this same trail, looked up at the same mountain, and didn’t come home.

From there, we continued down to Thukla for lunch, before pushing on. It was a long day — around 20km — but dropping altitude with every step felt good on the body.

Somewhere in amongst all of that… we celebrated Camille’s birthday. The day started with presents, cards, and letters from her family (lots of happy tears)— which was pretty special out here in the middle of the Himalayas. And it ended with a birthday cake at our tea house.

A long day on the legs, a birthday worth celebrating, and a reminder that even the descent has its own kind of magic.

Tired legs, full hearts… and back down to a slightly warmer night and flushing toilets - ahh the simple things!

After days of cloud, snow and grey skies, Gorak Shep gave us this as a farewell. That backdrop. Those peaks. That light. Worth every single step to get here.

Pic 1 — Camille, the birthday girl grabbing one last look at Everest before the trail took her away. That peak in the background — the one she’s pointing straight at — is the reason every single one of us was here.

Pic 2 - What you’re looking at is the Khumbu Glacier — the highest glacier in the world and the very ground we were walking on. The entire route to Base Camp sits on top of it, shifting and moving constantly beneath your feet. Even Gorak Shep, where we stayed, ate, slept, is built directly on the glacier. Standing next to those frozen walls of ice and rock, you realise just how raw and powerful this place truly is.

Pic 3 — Because apparently this group doesn’t go anywhere without a birthday cake! Happy Birthday Camille Maree — celebrated in true style at altitude, complete with a unicorn hat and the biggest smile on the mountain. What a place to turn another year older. We know how to do birthdays on this trek.

Day 14 (Day 10 of Trek): Pangboche to Namche Bazaar

Monday 4th May 2026

Pangboche, 3,985m → Namche Bazaar, 3,440m | Approx. 15km | Descent: 545m | High: ~10°C / Low: ~1°C

We woke this morning to a snow-covered town. Not something we were expecting… but then again, you can’t expect anything when it comes to the weather up here.

But as we started walking… the sun came out. Blue skies, sunshine, and for the first time in a while, we could actually feel the warmth on our faces. It lifted everyone’s spirits straight away.

As we dropped in elevation, the landscape began to change again — the tree line slowly reappearing, and the track lined with rhododendrons. It felt like we were coming back to life a little.

The day kicked off with a steady climb back up to Tengboche, retracing our steps past the monastery and those now very familiar views. Then it was down… down… down… all the way to Phungi Thenga — knees definitely feeling it by this point.

And just when you think you’re done… the climb back up begins. A solid uphill followed by what we like to call “Nepali flat” — which, let’s be honest, is never really flat.

But then… Namche. And it felt so good to be back in this beautiful town.

We checked back into the Tibet Inn and were treated to an upgrade to a first-floor room with a bathroom — thanks to the boss man. And after a week of no showers… a hot shower has never felt so good.

Dinner together, followed by a quick visit to the world’s highest Irish pub… and somehow, we were still in bed before 8:30.

Only two days left of the trek.

Kathie — the woman who held Kat’s hand across every suspension bridge on this trek. Until today. Today she let go, stepped out, arms wide open and took it on completely by herself. Every bridge after that? Not even a second thought. Sometimes the mountain gives you exactly the courage you didn’t know you had. A very proud moment.

Day 15 (Day 11 of Trek): Namche Bazaar to Phakding

Tuesday 5th May 2026

Namche Bazaar, 3,440m → Phakding, 2,610m | Approx. 12km | Descent: 830m | High: ~13°C / Low: ~3°C

Another day heading down… but still very much a trekking day.

Take memories. Leave footprints. Proud to support the Carry Me Back initiative and do our bit to help protect the place that gave us so much

Proud to support the Carry Me Back initiative and do our bit to help protect the place that gave us so much.

Before we left Namche, we each picked up 1–2kg of rubbish to carry down the mountain. It’s part of an initiative through Sagarmatha Next, helping to reduce the impact of waste in the Everest region. Everything that comes up the mountain has to come back down — and this is a small way for us to give back to a place that has given us so much.

Packs a little heavier… but it felt good.

We set off and made our way back towards Phakding — around 12km for the day. And you’d think after coming from this elevation it would be all downhill… but no. Still plenty of stairs. Up, down, up again… those classic Nepali trails that keep you working right to the end.

That said, the lower we got, the more the air thickened, the breathing eased, and the body started to feel a bit more like itself again.

Back through villages that now felt familiar, crossing the same suspension bridges, passing donkeys and yaks … but this time with a different energy. We’ve done the hard part.

Arriving into Phakding, the familiarity of it was quietly satisfying — the same trail, the same bridges, the same views, but us walking them as completely different people.

A solid day on the legs… and nearly there.

Suspension bridge selfie — one of our favourite pics of the trek, a bunch of amazing humans, river far below, mountains behind.

Ancient stupa, blazing sun, and the perfect pyramid of Ama Dablam. Some moments you just have to stop and stare.

Nepal’s national flower doing what it does best — stopping you in your tracks on the way home.

Day 16 (Day 12 of Trek): Phakding to Lukla

Wednesday 6th May 2026

Phakding, 2,610m → Lukla, 2,860m | Approx. 8km | Ascent: 250m | High: ~15°C / Low: ~5°C

Our final day on the trail.

And the mountains decided to give us one last classic Everest region experience… rain. All day.

Rain jackets on, packs covered, heads down… and off we went.

The track felt different today though. Even with the rain, there was a lighter energy in the group knowing we’d done it. Everest Base Camp behind us, and one final walk together before this chapter came to an end.

Along the way, we handed in the rubbish we’d carried down from Namche as part of the Sagarmatha Next initiative — a small contribution to helping keep this incredible region clean for future trekkers and locals alike.

Bernadette and her incredible guide Bimmaya — the woman who kept her safe, kept her moving and shared every step of her Himalayan adventure. Some people come into your life at exactly the right moment.

And then… back into Lukla. Where it all began.

Lukla delivered the reunion we had been looking forward to. Bernadette was there waiting and the hugs were long and well earned. Two different trails, two different adventures — but the same mountains, the same challenges and the same enormous sense of pride. We sat together over lunch, shared our stories and marvelled at what each of us had achieved. There were a few tears, a lot of laughter and an overwhelming feeling that every single one of us had left something on that mountain and brought something extraordinary back.

We spent the afternoon at what has to be the world’s weirdest Irish pub. Hidden away in a basement, and … apart from the colour green, there wasn’t a whole lot Irish about it. But after nearly two weeks on the mountain, no one really cared.

Then came our final celebration dinner with the whole team — the girls, guides, and porters all together.

And honestly… it was pretty emotional.

There was laughter, there were tears, there were stories being retold, favourite moments shared, and that realisation slowly sinking in that this huge adventure we’d all just experienced together was coming to an end.

So much gratitude for this team. For the support, the laughs, the resilience, and the memories we’ll all carry long after leaving these mountains.

One last sleep before heading back to Kathmandu… or at least we hope — delayed flights from Lukla are very common.

The finish line. The Pasang Lhamu Gate — and what a fitting place to end this 130km adventure. Every step, every hard day, every breathless climb led to this moment. We came, we climbed, we conquered.

Day 17: Lukla to Kathmandu

Thursday 7th May 2026

Lukla, 2,860m → Kathmandu, 1,400m | Flight: ~30 mins | High: ~28°C / Low: ~16°C

Up at 4:30am… airport by 5:30.

And in true Lukla fashion — the clouds rolled in, and the planes weren’t flying.

Which, when you remind yourself this is the world’s most dangerous airport, feels less like a frustration and more like a very sensible decision. We were happy to wait.

What followed was a masterclass in making the best of things.

The airport is not heated — it was freezing. A small café doing its best to feed way too many people. A couple of toilets serving what felt like half of Nepal (you can use your imagination). And a whole lot of waiting.

Some crocheted. Some slept. Some braved the dodgy coffee just to wrap their hands around something warm — while others made the strategic decision to avoid the coffee entirely, for reasons directly related to the toilet situation. We chatted, we sang, and somehow… the time passed.

And then, at 12:30pm — the news we’d been waiting for.

The planes were taking off from Kathmandu. Woop woop.

We were third in the queue — so not long now. And sure enough, a bumpy flight, a little extra time circling while we waited for our landing window… and we touched down back in Kathmandu.

Back at the Lo Mustang. And it felt like coming home.

Our favourite guard was there to greet us — a warm Namaste and a great big smile the moment we walked in. That kind of welcome after two weeks in the mountains means more than he probably knows.

The afternoon was ours. Shopping, sleeping, massages — whatever each person needed most after everything we’d just been through.

And then… our final dinner together with the WEA team and the Take on Nepal crew.

Delicious food, familiar faces, and a table full of people who’d shared something truly special. And then it came time to say goodbye to our guides.

Lots of hugs. Maybe a few tears. And the weight of it all — the mountain, the people, the weeks — landing somewhere deep and permanent.

And just like that… it was over.

Seventeen days. One extraordinary country. One extraordinary mountain. And a group of women who knew each other well enough at the start — and left knowing each other in a way that only shared mountains can create. Something deeper, something earned. The kind of bond that forms when you’ve shivered in sleeping bags in freezing rooms, cheered each other up the same brutal climbs, and stood together in the snow at the top of the world.

Nepal doesn’t let you leave unchanged. It gets into you — through the kindness of its people, the humility its mountains demand, and the quiet way it strips back everything unnecessary until all that’s left is exactly who you are. We came to trek to Everest Base Camp. We left with something far greater than a destination ticked off a list.

To Jenny, Camille, Sue, Kathie, Bernadette and Amanda — where do I even begin.

Thank you for saying yes. For packing your bags, facing your doubts, and showing up anyway. For every step taken on tired legs, every laugh in a freezing tea house, every quiet moment of encouragement when the mountain felt like too much. For the grit you didn’t know you had until you needed it — and then found it, every single time.

I’m Kat, and along with Sharon, started Women Embrace Adventure because we believed that women are capable of extraordinary things when they do them together. This trip proved it all over again. Watching each of you dig deeper than you thought possible, push through the cold and the altitude and the hard days, and arrive at 5,364 metres with tears in your eyes and strength in your hearts — I will carry that with me forever.

You are not just remarkable women. You are my people. And I couldn’t have shared this mountain with a better group if I’d searched the whole world over.

Here’s to us.

To Anil, Samjhana, Bimmaya, Jeevan, Dipan, Ambir and Bhuparaj, the entire Take on Nepal team— this was yours as much as ours. Thank you for carrying us, in every sense of the word.

And to Nepal — we’ll be back.

Women Embrace Adventure | Everest Base Camp 2026